China. Rock City.

After three days hiking in Wenhai, Max and I came back to the guesthouse sunburned, exhausted, and pungent. As we climbed the old stone stairs to the courtyard, though, we noted something was different since we'd left: the ground was carpeted with fresh pine needles, a 12-piece orchestra was striking up Naxi tunes, and a 60-odd person wedding party was hanging out singing along to the jams. We hustle into our room where Max has first dibs on the shower, and I peek my head out to see if I can figure out what's going on.

Then things start happening very fast. Before I know it, I've been spotted by a drunk uncle, dragged across the courtyard, and seated next to (what I now understand to be) the groom of the wedding. Other relatives or family friends then kindly notice my inexcusable lack of cigarettes and Chinese grain alcohol, and without speaking a word of English politely communicate that I have no choice but to begin drinking and smoking. By the time Max gets out of the shower to translate such key phrases as, "Sorry I reek so bad," or, "No more... I think my lungs are collapsing," I've been compelled to consume three shots of baiju and two cigarettes (which, incidentally, brings my lifetime cigarette total to five).

Post-shower and change, the groom asks me if that was my guitar he saw, and would I bring it out, and again there's no real way to politely decline. So a few minutes later the orchestra is silenced, the groom "opens" for me with a song, and then I (already a bit buzzed from the baiju) stumble through "Honesty Is Not Fucking Emo." All in all I think it was pretty well received, in a generally insane sort of way.

The show Max set up for me in Changsha was slightly less impromptu. A buddy of his runs the premiere punk rock bar in town, and he was able to add to the bill with this folk singer from Beijing. We (Max, myself, and a few friends) arrive at the place via a fleet of motorcycle taxis, and it felt like we were superheroes or something zooming through the cool, disgustingly polluted Changsha night. It was a ton of fun, obviously, and the kids were all super friendly. Afterwards we went to another bar that had a full drum kit and PA set up, and for a few brief shining moments 2/5 of Sharks and Guns! (the best ever college band out of New Haven, CT) would ride again.