Thursday, January 24, 2008

Three Pictures of the Western Wall

A good friend, who for the sake of his blog's anonymity shall remain nameless, sent me an email asking about t-shirts in Israel. And, since the last post involved the Western Wall, I wanted to add this little coda.

For those not in the know, a brief history lesson. The Western Wall, or the Wailing Wall, or the Kotel, is most of what remains from the Second Temple (516 BCE - 70 CE). Probably the most sacred site in Judaism, the Western Wall has been a focus of longing and prayer since it was destroyed by the Romans nearly 2000 years ago. I mentioned that we visited it our first and second day in Israel. Here's a picture, complete with the induction stand for the paratroopers on the plaza.

Now, this relates to t-shirts, postcards, and posters because of the image below. It's of a young Israeli paratrooper on Day 3 of the Six-Day War (1967), right after the liberation/occupation of Jerusalem, and it's one of the most iconic images in Israel today. If you're able to put aside politics for a moment, it's hard not to see it as incredibly stirring. The heroic angle and composition, the expression of complete awe and wonderment before God and State at these kids' accomplishment... It was the first time in 19 years that Jews had prayed at the Wall, and probably the first time in 2000 years that it was under Jewish control. The paratroopers became national heroes, and it's no accident that the swearing-in ceremonies for the paratroopers now happen on that plaza. Those that know me might find it hard to believe, but I really love this picture, and I seriously almost bought a postcard.

So when I went to visit my friend Jared in the West Bank, his roommate referenced what used to be on Western Wall plaza before it was a plaza. I didn't get a chance to look it up until I got to Moscow (spoiler alert: I survive Birthright), but it turns out there used to be a Morrocan Quarter in the Old City of Jerusalem, below. It was an 800 year old neighborhood, and it went all the way up to within 10 feet of the Western Wall. On June 10, 1967, three days after taking the Old City, Israeli soldiers began demolishing the "slum area" around the wall, giving the 650 inhabitants a few hours notice to leave.

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